This site contains car modification and auto upgrade information specifically for the turbo import Toyota JZX90 MarkII TourerV, however the principles applied here can be mostly utilised regardless of the make or model of motor vehicle.
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Brake Pad Change and Caliper Paint 28/12/2004
Materials required:
1 Can of CRC Brakleen
I Can of Hi Temp Enamel paint
A bunch of rags
Hi Temp grease
Optional sandpaper
Optional antisqueal compound
After a drive one day I noticed that the left side wheel was smoking ever so slightly. A quick touch of the wheel revealed that the brakes had been generating a lot of heat. I checked the other side in it was only moderately warm. The diagnosis: a sticking brake caliper. There was nothing for it but to pull the wheel off and inspect the caliper. The caliper indeed was sticking and needed a thorough clean. In fact it took quite a firm hammering to remove the floating part of the caliper from the fixed part. Using the Brakleen and a rag, I removed all of the grunge and excess grease fom the sliding rods of the floating component. Dont be afraid to be thourough with the Brakeleen as it will not affect the brakepads or damage any component of the braking system (unlike WD40 or equivalent).
At this time I removed the old pads and inspected them. There was still some wear left, but I removed them anyway in order to have new pads all-round. I have kept the pads as spares in case I need them in an emergency. (This happened to me once at Wakefield Park with my old RX7 when I wore the pads down to the metal and had to furiously hunt down some new pads so I could drive home, which I only found after visiting three auto shops in Goulbourn.) Once I was satisfied that the caliper was clean on both sides I applied a liberal amount of hi-temp grease to the sliding rod and re-inserted into the main part of the caliper, ensuring that there was a free sliding action.
Now was the time to completely remove the calipers for a more detailed clean. I also removed the disc rotors at the same time. Using the Brakleen and rags I removed all of the brake dust and road grime from both the caliper and the rotor. As an added measure you can also give the calipers a light sanding with 240 grit sandpaper to ensure the new paint gets a good bite on the old paint. I didn't feel it was necessary (which really means I was too lazy) and just painted directly over the cleaned caliper and rotor.
Before painting however I masking taped up every bit that I didn't want paint on such as the brake hose, bleeder nipple, and floating rod seals/boots. I didn't bother taping up the rotor face. After painting I soaked a rag in Brakleen and wiped the rotor face clean on both sides. After painting I moved on to the other side and repeated the same procedure.
At this point I returned to the first caliper/rotor and reassembled. At the same time I installed the new brake pads. The easiest way to add the pads is to first mount the non-floating part of the caliper and then slide the pads in front either side. If you are having problems with quealing brakes it is worthwhile to apply a thin layer of anti squeal compund to the plates that sit between the piston and the pads. Insert the retaining clips on top as shown in the picture. Then re-install the floating component of the caliper and tighten to recommended torque settings. (Tighten them bloody tight without going too overboard!). I found it easier to refit the rotor and caliper if I first located the caliper with a wheel nut as can be seen in the preceding photos. (oops hanging caliper in the last shot!)
Obviously I decided on a bright gold colour but there are many colours available in the heat resistant paints. I know of specific brake caliper paint but I find it hard to justify the added expense when a $12 can of engine enamel will do the same job. I have noticed some slight heat discolouration on the rotors after some use, but none of the paint has ever peeled or crazed.
Here is the finished result behind the stock rim. I quite like the gold calipers with the dark colour paintwork but for a more stealth and clean look you can use a nice silver (which I did on my other car at the same time) and it really freshens the wheels up.
I then moved on to the rear brakes. I was somewhat surprised to discover that the handbrake lever was in fact connected to some drums brakes inside the rear disc rotors. This caught me unware as I had not bought new drum shoes and now needed to order them. This would have to be done another day so I continued on with the disc pad change and painting job. The process for the rear brakes is virtually the same as the process for the front brakes.
The rear brakes have substantially more surface to paint due to the presence of the drums, so when the wheels are re-fitted, the gold colour is much more obvious. Overall I am qutie happy with the new look and the knowledge that the rust has been warded off for a while longer. Colour choice is a personal preference, and I may not like the gold in the future. Of course the choice of rims will influence whether or not I repaint them in a different colour later on.
You may have noticed that in an earlier picture the floating part of the caliper was hanging by its own weight whereas in the first pic here, I have it resting on an oil container. You should always be careful to make sure the brake line does not hang by the weight of the calipers. Try to find something of the right height to support the caliper so that the brake hose does not have undue stress placed upon it. You do not want to discover that you have cracked your brake line in an emergency situation just when you need your brakes the most.
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RECENT MODS CHRONOLOGY
5-Jan-2007
Turbo pages and Headlights
I have recently added a new page about my single turbo conversion. There is a second page yet to come, but page one outlines some of the supporting components needed as well as the turbo itself.
Page 2 will be forthcoming where I detail the fitment of the turbo, manifold and wastegate.
I have also added a page for modifications to my headlights that should be very useful for owners of import vehicles.
25-Jan-2007
Site Revamp
Wow, it has been a very long time since I worked on the site, but now I
am in the process of redesigning it so stay tuned as I add some more content
and attempt to bring this project up to date.
18-Mar-2006
Car Changes
Lots has happened since my last update on upgrades to the car. For instance
the car is now running a 2JZ bottom end and the gearbox has been completely
rebuilt with a stage 1.5 shift kit, beefier clutches and a 2800 rpm stall convertor.
To say that this has transformed the car is an understatement. The car is now
torque heaven, and is an absolute pleasure to drive. The lag that was sadly
felt with the 2.5L motor is now completely gone with the 3L and the stally.
When I can find time to update the site with the process I went through I will
do so. I have many hundreds of pictures to add.
Whatever your vehicle is, whether it is a turbo car or NA or a Toyota or other manufacturer, I hope that the automotive information on this page is of benefit to you as you take the path of modification and upgrade on your car.
Toyota JZX90 MarkII TourerV.